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Parts Inventories from overstocked or closing Sea Doo shops. If you have parts or know of a Sea Doo dealer in your area that is closing, e-mail me with the details.
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Featured Sale Items
 Dual Carb Complete Rebuild Kits For Sea Doo Dual Carb Tuning Kit  $109 inc. shipping! Rebuild Kit Fits 38 40 44 46 mm Mikuni Carb $14.99 inc. shipping e-mail me if interested 140mm / 155mm  Repair Service Now Available! High Volume Fuel Pump Kit  Fits 38 40 46 mm Mikuni Carbs Hard to read?  Check out this Gauge repair kit! 1995-up Sea Doo?  NEW Button Kit Is now available!  DI & RFI HD Rectifier! Recommended Upgrade!  Aftermarket MPEMs!  Try a Float Kit!  JetPump Rebuild Service
SeaDoo Tool Rental! |
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New Components
Accessories & More
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Links
787/947 CB Reservoir Oil
A site that has free
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I offer NOS parts for Sea Doo watercraft and my prices are usually lower than you’ll find anywhere else! The part you receive will be in new condition unless noted in its’ description. Since I sell outdated inventory from dealers who no longer carry Sea Doo, the packaging may have dirt on it, may be damaged, opened or missing, but that doesn’t affect the part in any way. If you need a part you don't find on this site, e-mail me with the model, year, and part you need and I'll see what I can do for you.
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Sea Doo Tips
electrical system damage NEVER jump start your ski with a running vehicle!!
Change your pump oil
Battery dying in your Trim
Every time you have
Save money and time
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| The area above is always changing so check back often as links are added. |
Your Sea Doo Parts and Info Source!
As you can imagine, I’m really busy this time of year! I’m being swamped by emails so may not get to some but will try to answer most. If you send me a parts request and I don’t reply, it may be that I don’t have the part available. If you have a tech question, if possible please make your request short and simple. Sorry if I don’t get to everyone’s requests but this time of year I get about 40 emails a day so get overwhelmed quick!
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Finally, note that lots of the things stated here are my opinions and only opinions but were gathered over many years in and around Sea Doo watercraft related industries as well as owning quite a few myself. In those years I’ve helped FREE OF CHARGE literally thousands of people with technical and maintenance issues so hope I can help you as well. Due to the number of emails I get, I sometimes can’t answer all but do try to! Also note that sometimes I’ll compile info I see posted on the various Sea Doo boards out there into a page and add it to my site if it looks like it will help out fellow Sea Doo owners. Sometimes that info may be flawed so don’t take it as gospel! If you have suggestions for additions to this site or see errors in it, let me know and I’ll see what I can do! Your comments on improving this site are also appreciated.
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I’ve dealt with many dealerships over the years and RPM Motorsports is by far the best dealership I’ve ever come across! The friendly staff are eager to help, service gets done fast, and the prices on new Boats and Skis are hard to beat. They’re centrally located off Rt. 30 in between Rt. 71 and Rt. 75 so they’re easy to get to. They also were awarded the Sea-Doo Boat District Dealer of the Year (US Northest Region) so that should tell you something! On a final note, their showroom is the most amazing one I’ve ever seen in a dealership. No where else have I seen a Jetboat and a GTX docked at a real dock indoors! Click the picture below to check them out! 
Check out the 2007 Sea Doo lineup.
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There is a small part that wears out and needs replaced occasionally or you’ll end up with a broken reverse cable. Check out my newly added info page HERE to see if you may need yours fixed!
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I’m currently working with a local machine shop known for it’s excellence in performance 2 and 4 stroke engine rebuilding and we plan to offer crank and shortblock remanufacturing. Our goal is to use only high quality components and have quick turnaround by having rebuilds in stock and ready to ship as soon as your core is inspected and found to be in good condition. Our goal is to be up and running by February and once this service is off the ground, there will be much more info here! We’re also buying cores so if you have anything available, send us a list with an asking price and we’ll see if we can do some business. In the mean time, I have no recommendations for rebuilds since I’ve not heard of products offered by any company besides Sea Doo themselves that were worth recommending. That’s not to say there aren’t reputable rebuilders out there, just that I haven’t heard of any that meet/beat oem standards. A great warranty package isn’t nearly as important as the confidence that you know it likely won’t break any time soon. Personally, I would rather purchase a motor for a bit more with a limited warranty with the confidence knowing the components used in the rebuild are going to last and I’m not going to have to pull again for years! If you decide to use one of the many rebuilders, insist they use oem or similar quality parts. The main failure point now with most rebuilds is that Chinese bearings and inferior aftermarket pistons are commonly used to reduce costs. I have to say if the Chinese use the same metals in their weapons that they use in their tools and bearings, we'll never need to worry about them taking over the world! The result is an engine that needs rebuilt again very soon. The cost using oem parts will be a bit more, but the reliability will be worth it!
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Since Sea Doos come from the factory with about as much power as they could offer and keep reliability, modifications almost always shorten the engines time before a rebuild is needed. Therefore, my philosophy is "if you want to go faster, buy a faster STOCK Sea Doo!". A modified 2 stroke won’t last long and is usually the cause of peoples complaints about them. Adding a high compression head and other engine mods will ultimately lead to a rebuild sooner than later. If you want your 2 stroke Sea Doo to go faster, buy a stock Sea Doo with a larger engine! As far as the newer 2 stroke 787 RFI and 947 DI powered skis go, since they’re computer controlled and really touchy (not to mention expensive to rebuild), I wouldn’t recommend one of those if you ever want to add mods for performance. Stick with the carb models for the most flexibility on tuning and modifications. As for the newest 4 stroke models, it’s worth noting that the same thing has happened in the PWC industry that happened in the Automotive. The EPA has mandated that new PWCs meet strict emissions standards, therefore the newest 4 stroke models end up being really complicated and expensive to repair if any of the numerous systems ever fail. The good news is that you don’t need to do a “smog test” like you do on new cars so it’s not a problem YET modifying them. For now note though that modifying a stock ski that’s still in warranty can void that warranty so be careful. It can really cost you in the long run! As for modifying for speed, I think it’s irresponsible for shops to modify the new 4 strokes for as much speed as possible so I don’t see myself ever offering those types of parts. There are way too many incompetent people out there with good credit and put one of those modified skis in their hands and you’re asking for an accident! I do have a few aftermarket parts available that I’ve collected through the years though for old 2 strokes, so if you’re still interested in mods check here for what parts I have in stock. If you’re still thinking about doing mods, my advice is as follows… If you want to rebuild it soon, up the compression. If you want your engine to last a little longer, an aftermarket pipe and carb mods as well as a different impeller should get you some extra speed without killing too much reliability. I don’t have any actual performance modification info on this site, but there are many online forums and sites that specialize in that so Google them if you’re still in the market for info and help.
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On this subject, you’ll get widely varying opinions on which is best but here’s how I see it. The 4 stroke lasts longer and is really reliable, but is much more complicated than a 2 stroke so when they start breaking it’s going to be costlier. When they do break, they need to go to the dealer in most cases. The 4 stroke by design is also a heavier, less agile machine compared to 2 stroke models. It’s also worth noting that the 155hp 4 stroke is much more reliable than the 215hp model as well if you’re shopping for one. Mechanically, the 2 stroke is a simpler machine and most of the time you can do repairs yourself. If people do the proper maintenance on the 2 strokes, they will usually last hundreds of hours before any major repairs are encountered. Due to strict environmental laws though, PWC manufacturers have phased out 2 stroke production. They now use the heavier, more complicated 4 strokes. When PWCs first came out, they were a toy like a dirt bike or go cart. They were a cheap, agile fun craft that you didn’t need a loan to buy. These days the machines offered are really heavy, cost more than a boat and take years to pay off. I can’t say I’m happy with the way the industry has gone, but their direction has unfortunately been guided by the EPA and other stricter Gov’t regs. From what I’ve seen, it appears that the industry has given up on pursuing the available technology (see Evinrude E-TEC 2 Stroke Outboard) to make 2 stroke PWCs work but I’m hoping they’re secretly trying to come up with a new 2 stroke engine design for them. Due to the 2 strokes light weight, high revving, and big hp per cc, in my opinion they are clearly the best engines for PWC use so I’m keeping my fingers crossed!
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If you found a used DI model in good running condition and is a really good buy, go for it! But if it has been modified or has mechanical problems run from it! Those machines are ok when in stock good running condition but it’s A FACT that modifying for more performance on any 2 stroke Sea Doo will shorten the life of the engine since they originally came from the factory with as much HP as could be offered and still keep reliability. Then the FACT that DI systems are really complicated and parts expensive ($600 fuel pump, various sensors that need a buds to diagnose, engine much more expensive to rebuild) will make you your dealers favorite customer! In my opinion for the minor fuel savings (130hp 951cc Carb - 14.5gph (at WOT)// 130hp 951DI - 12.4gph (at WOT)) and minimal performance advantages, that machine isn’t worth the long term big expenses for repairs WHEN it breaks. Stick with the easier to repair, easier to mod carb models and you’ll thank me later! Of course, that’s JUST MY OPINION so take it for what it’s worth!
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You should check to see if the ski has a 787X engine (look on tag on mag housing). The 787X was a limited production (a little over 500) engine that was installed in 1995 XP800 and some 1996 XP and GSX to make Sea Doo eligible for the 1200 racing class. It’s the same as the 787 with the exception of the cylinders being bored 0.25mm over from the factory. Unlike the Hemi Superbird, that one isn’t worth much! The horsepower increase was minimal and since you can’t bore it any further without rave valve machining and aftermarket pistons, that engine normally requires a re-sleeve if you toast a bearing or ring. If possible, go with a standard bore 787 machine.
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There are several companies currently selling aftermarket Sea Doo wear rings with a stainless covering inside or actual solid stainless as well. The way I've understood it, the stainless was designed to keep the tolerances tight for the best speed/pump output. It's a really nice looking piece but really should only be used if you aren't near sand/gravel and don't plan to be. The reason is that the oem rubber/fiberglass ring is designed to wear (hence the term "Wear Ring") when foreign objects pass through the pump. With the stainless ring, the impeller and pump bearings take most of the abuse if you get into sand, rocks, etc. A $250 impeller or a $50 ring? The choice seems clear to me. You're much better off with the stock sacrificial one in the long run unless you want a really tight clearance for the most speed.
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On various Sea Doo boards, I’ve noticed recently people having counterbalance gear failures. I think most of the problem lies in the fact that most 787/947 Sea Doo owners don’t realize there is a oil reservoir in the crankcase that needs checked. Check out the 787/947 Reservoir Check page I put together for help with that!
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If so, there is a problem that I feel needs mentioned here. The Supercharged model is a great machine no doubt. BUT…a mechanic friend of mine who works for a dealership nearby says he’s seeing lots of supercharger failures. The problem is that under repeated no load high revs like you find when it jumps a wave, the supercharger produces excess boost which puts strain on the superchargers’ ceramic clutches. Riding habits are a big factor on when they go, but clutch failure typically happens around 50 hours. Usually when the ceramic clutches on the supercharger fail, they go places where they shouldn’t so the engine has to come apart. Sea Doo will put in an upgraded clutch assembly under warranty, but you’re out of luck if it fails once the warranty has expired. If you own one of these machines and it hasn’t been updated, I would recommend having it checked regularly by your local dealer or mechanic and get the update as soon as you notice a decrease in rpm/power. Note though that even the updated clutch is still ceramic and they WILL fail eventually. From everything I’ve read, the best solution is a hydraulic clutch from Rotax Racing that’s supposed to be bulletproof, but don’t have much info on that one.
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If so, you should closely monitor the running condition of the engine. An overheated engine can score the cylinders resulting in a loss of compression. More often though, getting an engine hot enough to melt hoses and wires will also melt the plastic cages that retain the balls in their proper places in the main bearings. If those get brittle and fail, the crank will go very fast after that. If you notice any unusual noises shortly after an overheat, you might want to pull the engine and have rebuilt before it grenades and costs much more to repair.
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Unfortunately, due to the phasing out of the ‘ol reliable 587 quite a while back and all 2 strokes as of now, we’re relegated to using 4 Strokes. Those are nice machines but too powerful/fast for rentals in my opinion. I’m keeping my fingers crossed that Sea Doo comes up with a lighter weight/more agile/less powerful ski for rental use but as of now have heard nothing of such a thing. Hopefully they will realize that a good number of people get their first taste of a PWC by renting one and will continue to provide suitable craft for the needs of the Rental/Guided Tour field. If by chance you are in or considering starting a rental business, check out my tips on rental business operation. I have gathered these opinions and suggestions from my experiences in the rental field.
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Check out the 2008 Sea Doo lineup.
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 Last Updated: May 7, 2008 Visitors - since 2/29/2008
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Sea Doo Model Picture Archives from 1989-2004! New, Used Miscellaneous Items For Sale
Français (French) - Le URL ci-dessous me permettra de traduire votre demande tellement aucun problème s'enquérant en votre propre langue ! Deutsch (German) - Die URL unten erlaubt mir, Ihren Antrag zu übersetzen so kein Problem, das in Ihrer eigenen Sprache sich erkundigt! Italiano (Italian) - Il URL qui sotto permetterà che me traduca la vostra richiesta così nessun problema che domanda in vostra propria lingua! Portuguese (Brazil) - O URL abaixo permitirá que eu traduza seu pedido assim nenhum problema que inquire em sua própria língua! Español (Spanish) - ¡El URL abajo permitirá que traduzca su petición tan ningún problema que investiga en su propia lengua! http://www.worldlingo.com/products_services/worldlingo_translator.html
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