Procedure for Engine Removal
Engine removal is not too difficult to do on most skis. This description is a general one and relies on your ability to analyze the situation at hand. If you see something connected that shouldn't be when time to pull the engine, by all means disconnect it before proceeding ! Also, a good way to avoid reassembly problems is to make sure to mark where fuel/oil/water hoses and wires went as well. Pictures of the steps as you disconnect things can't hurt either !
In this procedure, I skip disconnecting the fuel/oil lines and throttle/choke cables from the rotary assembly. If your rotary valve is damaged, you may need to remove the rotary assembly for machining.
You may want to consult a shop manual for your particular ski if you have any doubts about jumping into this project !.
- Metric socket set, ratchet, and extensions
- Metric allen wrenches
- 10 mm wrenches
- 13mm wrench
- Vise grips or pliers
- Flat head screwdriver
- Razor knife
Parts needed: Removal Procedure:
- Remove the jet pump (see pump removal page). You may be able to get the engine out without pulling the pump and shaft, but the shaft alignment should be checked when reinstalling the engine, so you should remove the pump now.
- Remove the pto/shaft cover (usually grey plastic, 2 wing nuts securing). Locate the black shaft boot and, using vise grips or pliers, twist off the clamps securing it. You then can pull out the shaft in most cases.
- Disconnect and remove the battery, removing the black ground wire first. Store it on a piece of wood or rubber and not directly on concrete or you will drain it. Locate the electrical connections that go from any boxes to the motor and unplug them. You may have to open any waterproof ignition boxes and disconnect from inside. Also pull the spark plug wires and place them on their grounding device (2 posts, may be orange, located near the upper magneto cover).
- Loosen the clamp where the tuned pipe connects to the (2"-3") hose using a flat screwdriver. Also disconnect any small water lines/hoses from the pipe. Then remove the 4 bolts/nuts securing the pipe flange to the exhaust manifold. Also remove any retaining clamps that secure the pipe to the engine and any bolts (13mm) that secure the pipe to the crankcase. You then can work the pipe out, using care not to damage your fiberglass. It may take a couple tries before you figure out how to rotate/twist it out.
- Locate the air box and open it up. Using an allen wrench, remove the bracket connecting the engine to carbs if there is one. Remove any allen head bolts holding the lower airbox parts to the carb(s) and remove the lower parts of the air box.
- Disconnect the water lines from the engine. They are typically located on the head and under the exhaust manifold. They are the hoses that connect to the jet pump and the exhaust outlet at the rear of the ski.
- Locate the 4 bolts securing the rotary cover and remove them. Locate the hose connecting the carb fuel pump to the crankcase and loosen clamp at crankcase. Cut any zip ties securing the choke/throttle cables to the hull as well as any fuel/oil hose ties. You then can pull out the rotary cover/carb assembly and secure out of the way. If you want to keep the rotary valve in its proper position, next take a rubber band and wrap around the rotary shaft to retain the valve on the shaft.
- Locate the 2 large oil lines and disconnect from the crankcase. You can tie these up above the level of the tank to avoid making an oily mess in the hull, but you most likely will get some oil spillage in there, so be prepared with extra dry rags to soak it up. A trick to have the least oil spilled is to first remove the upper hose from the top of the oil tank. Then kink/clamp and remove the lower hose from the crankcase and quickly connect the upper hose to the lower fitting on the case. You then can take the lower hose and connect to the top of oil tank which will keep the oil in the tank. That keeps oil in the case while engine is being removed.
- Using a 13mm socket with a long extension, remove the 4 bolts securing the engine plate to the motor mounts. If any shims are under the 4 plate corners, remove them and make sure to note where they go.
- Look around for any missed items which need disconnected. If none are seen, you then can lift out the block. If you have a friend around, this can be a plus ! Before lifting, you may also want to place some padding or rags around the fiberglass edges so they don't get scratched when pulling the engine out. Once the engine is out, disconnect the starter wire at the starter using a 10mm wrench or socket. You then can relocate the assembly to the bench.
- While the engine is out, inspect your motor mounts and replace any broken/cracked/separated ones. This is also a good time to clean out the hull and get any loose bolts/parts/tools you may have dropped.
- When you're ready to reinstall the block, see the Engine Installation page.